A Marriage Made in Spokane 

Sunrise at Whitefish Station, Montana.

I’m writing this on the Empire Builder somewhere east of Havre, Montana keeping fingers crossed we get into the Central Time Zone by nightfall. We shoved off from Union Station in Portland, Oregon just about 24 hours ago and we’ve still got another 24 before we embrace the skyline of Chicago. The first stretch seemed like riding along memory lane as the tracks parallel the Columbia River through the gorge we visited last week albeit on the north bank not the south. As the sun faded we had good views of the towering cliffs and the damage done by forest fires in 2017. So far on this trip each and every embarkation has been with the aim of going somewhere new. Today, instead of going to, we’re returning from, and despite the diversion of new scenery and landscapes, we’re happy to have home in our sights. After doing this on and off for a month, getting onto the train and settled into our cramped accommodations comes as second nature. As on the other trains, Simon, our cabin steward, is wonderfully friendly. Like the Lake Shore Limited that begins in two sections, one in Boston and the other in New York, with the joining taking place around Albany, so too does the Empire Builder begin its journey in schizophrenic form. Our section began in Portland and the other in Seattle. Around 1:30 a.m. this morning the arranged marriage took place in Spokane with few witnesses, no preacher, and even the parents of the bride and groom missing. Off we go on an Amtrak honeymoon to Chicago. One sad fact about taking this train eastbound is that we pass through the spectacular scenery in the Rockies at night. Also, we were tucked in bed for the all-too-brief transit of Idaho’s panhandle. 

We had the bright light of the rising full moon to urge us ever onward but it was overcast and most of the vistas were cloaked in pale gray and shadow Besides gaining a time zone (Pacific to Mountain) overnight we were rewarded for getting up early when our eastbound train steamed headlong into the westbound sunrise at the historic station at Whitefish just outside Glacier National Park. Fortunately, that’s a ten-minute stop which left plenty of time to get out, stretch, and take some photos. After breakfast we spent some time in the observation car which provided some spectacular views of distant snow-capped peaks and the lower valleys where plentiful larch trees provided the orange and yellow accent colors of fall. Before long the hills got smaller and we coasted out onto the plains again. Although we braved the observation car for the first time today, we’ve been careful on this trip to remember that the COVID epidemic is still alive and well in this land. Amtrak is great about requiring masks on all trains, platforms and in stations. Lowering a mask is okay when eating and drinking, but only when putting food in your mouth or taking a sip. Then the mask must go back up. Even those sleeping in their seats must be masked. 

Observation Car

Like anywhere there’s always a few jerkballs who think wearing a mask doesn’t mean covering their nose. Those who don’t are given three chances. The first one is the announcement on when to be masked. If you violate the policy you and your luggage are unceremoniously dropped off at the next stop no matter how small or isolated. The next trail will be along, in 24 hours. The same goes for those caught smoking (both regular and wacky tobacky) or for other infractions. Earlier today a combative guy was kicked off in Havre for repeatedly refusing to put his labrador on a leash. After that, I noticed the handful of other passengers with tiny yip-yip dogs, started carrying them everywhere even though leashed. The only exception to the mask rule is in private sleeping quarters which we very much appreciate. On our 14-hour detour day on buses and commuter trains we had to have them on non-stop and it was a drag. While Amtrak is not seating folks with strangers at shared tables and booths in the dining car as is their tradition, there still isn’t any real social distancing available. Booths are only inches apart. Fortunately, the stewards will take your dinner order and deliver it to your room. Everyone around us in our sleeper car is doing just that. There are several entrees to choose from and sleeper passengers get one complimentary cocktail a day. More, of course, can be purchased in the lounge car should you so desire. So far we’re running about a half hour behind schedule. Having to take the sidings for the numerous freight trains which are doing their level best to alleviate America’s shipping backlog takes a toll. But if it means that Wal-Marts across American won’t run short of plastic tchotchkes or this year’s “it” toy for Christmas, we’re willing to take one for the collective good. Most of tonight we’ll be eastbound and down across the bulk of North Dakota and we’ll awake in Minnesota in time to stretch our legs in Minneapolis. It’s all downhill from there through Wisconsin to Chicago where we’ll spend two nights. Monday we’re Boston bound on our last leg, an overnight transit in reverse on the Lake Shore Limited.

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Steam Engine display in Havre, Montana.